Here in the depths of the Illampu range, the views got progressively better the higher we climbed. However at this point at 4900 metres we were taking two gasps for every step and not appreciating the scenery as much as we would like.

On this day we met only four people, all locals. Each asked for something: one wanted headache tablets, another shampoo, another food, and the last one, less creatively, money. They all got what they wanted, except the money man.